MerleFest Dreaming: One Of America’s Premier Roots Festivals Is Worth The Road Trip

MerleFest Dreaming: One Of America’s Premier Roots Festivals Is Worth The Road Trip

Jason Herman
May 5, 2023

This year marked the 35th edition of MerleFest in Wilkesboro, North Carolina. This legendary festival was founded in 1988 in memory of Eddy Merle Watson as a fundraiser for Wilkes Community College and to celebrate and is a celebration of “traditional plus” music.  Traditional plus is a unique mix of genres based on the traditional, roots-oriented sounds of the Appalachian region, including bluegrass and old-time music, and expanded to include Americana, country, blues, rock, and many other styles. Held each year at the end of April, MerleFest is the world's biggest and most prestigious roots / traditional music festival. Their motto is "Music, Moments, and Memories." For each of its four days, this festival lived up to and surpassed every expectation of this festival. It is an exceptionally joyous experience that feels like a hometown Fourth of July street festival full of community warmth, pride, authenticity, and southern hospitality.  

Driving through downtown Wilkesboro, the entire town has opened up to welcome and fully embrace the festival and its guests. At MerleFest, you will experience you will find something for everyone - a considerable kid zone, a vast food hall, a vendor and a craft zone, and twelve stages. For those who are hungry, down-home cooking will settle your stomach, including delicious hand pies and deep-fried pickles. There are numerous instruments to try out, with instrument manufacturers present to sit down and start picking with any fellow festival goers. MerleFest breathes the full spectrum of music, and attendees will be gobsmacked by the number of hard and soft cases people have strapped to their backs.

Scott and Seth Avett of The Avett Brothers and from Concord, NC, summed up the MerleFest experience best when they headlined Friday's performances. They talked of how they came as children to the festival, saying they wanted to be a performer one day and "get in on that." However, once they started performing at here, they soon realized that the line separating a performer from a patron was minimal. When you attend MerleFest, you are part of the whole experience and how special it is. We could not agree more with their observation and distilled why we loved every moment and every aspect of this festival.

Everyone at MerleFest brought their own instruments so they could enjoy some pickin' onsite

It is not just residents of North Carolina that want to "get in on MerleFest." During this festival, we met people from all corners of the country - Alaska, California, Louisiana, and Maine. People worldwide also traveled to Wilkesboro as we met roots fans from Switzerland, Germany, and Finland. Not only will you find people from all over the world, but people of all ages at the festivals - from young adults to empty nesters to grandparents alongside their grandchildren.  

Everyone at MerleFest brought their own instruments so they could enjoy some pickin' onsite

This festival is amongst the first major music festivals on the calendar, where bands try to make their mark to make their national presence known, and it is where one discovers the next big act. Last year Fireside Collective was considered by many a bust-out appearance. They quickly became one of the hottest acts on the festival circuit with spectacular appearances at Charm City Bluegrass and DelFest - but seen first at MerleFest. 

Wyatt Ellis performing with Peter Rowan’s Bluegrass Band

Wyatt Ellis performing with Peter Rowan’s Bluegrass Band

In the years to come, be on the lookout for fourteen-year-old mandolin virtuoso Wyatt Ellis.  Bella White also captivated the audience between The Travelin' McCoury & Friends and Tanya Tucker. White was so joyous after her performance, she was dancing with a bandmate with giddy delight. Lastly, be on the lookout for Bee Taylor, who entranced the audience on Friday night with a magical set between Marcus King and The Avett Brothers.

Wyatt Ellis performing with Peter Rowan’s Bluegrass Band

Wyatt Ellis performing with Peter Rowan’s Bluegrass Band

Brothers of a Feather with Chris and Rich Robinson of The Black Crowes

Brothers of a Feather with Chris and Rich Robinson of The Black Crowes

For years music lovers throughout the DMV would talk about the various regional festivals. In particular, as we traded festival stories like baseball trading cards, one festival always came up - MerleFest. Many heard of the festival and its unforgettable performances and tales. For many, we found this North Carolina festival to be just outside of our reach as if an imaginary line and radius had been drawn around the greater Washington DC Metro Area. It seemed so close, and while the performances and allure were so compelling, we would rarely find anyone who had made the journey to Wilkesboro. Everyone told us how this festival was on their bucket list, they planned to go there and heard great things, but still had yet to attend. For those few individuals and artists we spoke with, their faces lit up when they spoke about their experience here.  

Brothers of a Feather with Chris and Rich Robinson of The Black Crowes

Brothers of a Feather with Chris and Rich Robinson of The Black Crowes

This year MerleFest held a 100th-year birthday celebration for namesake Merle Watson's father - music legend Doc Watson. The lineup and energy were so compelling we had to make the journey to Wilkesboro, North Carolina. For all the imaginary boundaries and notions that the festival is just a little too far away from Washington, DC, we are here to tell you that it is within your grasp and worth the trip.  

Follow the rainbow to get to MerleFest!

Follow the rainbow to get to MerleFest!

Wilkesboro, North Carolina, is remarkably easy to get to from Washington, DC. Although this festival is nearly 380 miles away from Washington, DC, directions and driving are simple with picturesque highway driving - take I-66 out to Front Royal, VA; hop onto I-81 down past Roanoke, VA; head to I-77 south to Wilkesboro, NC; and get on US-421 straight into the heart of Wilkesboro.

As you leave the metro area, you see the clutter, hustle, and traffic of Washington, DC, evaporate into the background. When heading towards the Shenandoah Valley, you will see morning clouds gently rolling over and clinging to the luscious landscapes. The way that city life falls away and gives way to the splendor of the countryside by the time you turn onto I-81, the picturesque Shenandoah guides your journey down south for 218 miles. Depending on the onset of Spring, your journey will see colors besides green - be on the lookout for spring fireworks and colors, including bright yellow bushes and vibrant pink Eastern Redbud trees. If you want to break up the trip, we recommend breaking up the journey with a stop at Devil's Backbone's Basecamp in Lexington, Virginia, for food and beverages. You can also stop at natural wonders like Natural Bridge and Luray Caverns in southern Virginia.

Follow the rainbow to get to MerleFest!

Follow the rainbow to get to MerleFest!

We found our way to Wilkesboro Campground, more affectionately known as SewerFest. Not only is this campground spacious and beautiful, but during MerleFest, it provides its buses that run nonstop to and from the campground directly to the festival's entrance. SewerFest has accommodations for both car and RV camping, and nothing is overlooked. At SewerFest, you will find all the standard campground accommodations, plus a full-service kitchen serving breakfast, lunch, dinner, and post-concert food. With great delight, you can order a coffee and biscuit for breakfast (vegetarian options are available). If you want to avoid setting up a tent after driving to Wilkesboro, we recommend Dancin' Dave's Festival Camping. Reserve your camping spot, tell Dancin' Dave where your site is, and arrive at a spacious tent set up with a cot and chair included.  We will note that the one thing Wilkesboro may not have is adequate hotel accommodations. It has only a few hotels which are booked almost immediately after becoming available.

Music poured out of every corner of the Wilkes Community College Campus for four magical and music-filled days. This enormous festival has twelve official stages but many more impromptu performance areas dotting the festival grounds. During the festival, we affectionately said that this festival has more stages than any of us have fingers or toes.

A packed Hillside Stage

A packed Hillside Stage

There were many memorable moments at this year's event. Probably more than anyone could remember and spread out over the plethora of stages. The following list is in no particular order:

  • Tommy Emmanuel's performance. His performance included some notes clocking in at 50 notes per bar, performing an indescribable "American Tune" by Paul Simon only to be topped off by a breathtaking "Amazing Grace." 
  • The torrential, if not epic, storm that occurred during Brothers of a Feather's performance as they serenaded us with some of their most beloved acoustic songs by The Black Crowes.  
  • DC Metro Area artist Yasmin Williams' performance on the Hillside Stage where this unique guitarist produced a roboust wall-of-sound out of a single instrument.
  • The Album Hour hosted by The Waybacks covering The Who's Who's Next with an all-star cast. Members included Sam Bush, Jim Lauderdale, Celia Woodsmith of Della Mae, and Ali McGuirk
  • A bust-out, jaw-dropping, and perhaps career-defining performance by Bee Taylor.
  • The intimate hometown vibe and performance by The Avett Brothers.
  • Mando Mania, where the best mandolin performers and their priceless instruments are collectively assembled under one roof.  
  • World-class performances, spontaneous sit-ins, and unforgettable collaborations from artists and ensembles spanning multiple stages. This included The Travelin McCourys & Friends, where living legends Del McCoury, Peter Rowan, Sam Bush, and Jim Lauderdale all performed together. The MerleFest Bluegrass All-Stars also consisted of many more living legends.
The Black Opry Review

The Black Opry Review

The one notable performance that stood out and was talked about for days afterward by everyone we spoke to was The Black Opry Revue. This all-star ensemble performed passionately and sang about some uncomfortable and necessary truths, which were well received and embraced by the audience.

The Black Opry Review

The Black Opry Review

Performances at this festival are a rare confluence, collaboration, and sit-ins by musicians you rarely would see together at a single festival, let alone see perform on the same stage together. One-in-a-lifetime lineups are one of the things that make this festival so unique. Where else will you see Sam Bush lean over and whisper into Jerry Douglas's ear and share a laugh?  Then, seconds later, Sam Bush shares yet another joke with Peter Rowan.  This festival specializes in authentic, heartfelt, and once-in-a-lifetime performances and interactions.

For all these reasons and many more will always add MerleFest to the festivals we must attend. We strongly encourage you to come- it is worth the drive, and it is worth the priceless memories you will take away from Wilkesboro, NC. This festival is within your reach - it just requires a little more time and gas than it takes to get to other festivals. The priceless experiences and cherished moments are truly and indescribably worth it. 

MerleFest has a way of making fans radiate with joy!

MerleFest has a way of making fans radiate with joy!

We are already giddy with anticipation for MerleFest 36, which will take place from April 25th to 28th, 2024.  We hope to see you in downtown Wilkesboro and beside the campsite fires and pickin' parties at nearby campgrounds, and most of all, sharing some priceless moments with you at MerleFest!

Playlists

Playlists

Playlists


Associated Albums

Associated Albums

Associated Albums


Released during MerleFest was I Am A Pilgrim: Doc Watson at 100.  This is a monumental tribute to Doc Watson by various artists.  

Photo Gallery

Photo Gallery

Photo Gallery


Enjoy photos by our photographer Jason Herman.

Day 1

Day 1 - Sights & Sounds

Day 2

Day 2 - Sights & Sounds

Day 3

Day 3 - Sights & Sounds

Day 4

Day 4 - Sights & Sounds

Essential Checklist

Essential Checklist

Additional

Checklist


Must Do's

  • Album Hour, hosted by The Waybacks on the Hillside Stage, is a must-see performance every year.
  • Try to attend late-night Dance Hall performances. These performances put the dance in Dance Hall. Late-night performances not to be missed include Scythian, Donna & The Buffalo.
  • Most musicians, except headliners, will appear on multiple stages, numerous days, and sometimes several times on the same day. If you miss the opportunity to see them because of a conflict, you will have another time to see them perform.
  • If you have an instrument and you want to jam or pick at the festival or campground, then bring it.
  • Check the Autograph Booth to meet with your favorite musician, have your merchandise signed, and get a once-in-a-lifetime selfie taken.

Special Notes:

  • If you see a T-Shirt you like on Thursday, then be sure to purchase it Thursday!  Some of the best T-shirts are printed in limited quantities, and if you do not buy them on Thursday, they will probably sell out.
  • No alcohol is available on the grounds of this festival.

MerleFest Essentials

MerleFest Essentials

Additional

Resources


MerleFest Essentials:

To learn more about resources DC Music Review found invaluable, please see the following:

Mobile Applications:

Let's face it, in today's modern age, we need some technology to make our experiences better.  With large festivals such as MerleFest that contain so many incredible performances, autograph experiences, and workshops, we need a mobile application to plot our our festival experience.  While we fully support being footloose and letting the day evolve organically, we also need a system to alert us to breaking news or evolvign weather conditions.  That being said, please use the following links to download your official MerleFest mobile application.

Camping Resources:

General Resources

To learn more about MerleFest, please see the following web resources:

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About the author

Jason Herman

A 24x7 member and Photo Editor of DC Music Review. Jason has been passionate about music since his earliest days and is especially excited about the music scene around his adopted hometown, Washington DC.

Capturing the magic of hundreds of concerts and countless music festivals under his belt, you can find him at concerts around the country but especially in his adopted hometown of Washington, D.C. Before turning his lens to music, Jason followed professional cyclists around the U.S. Domestic Circuit and tallest mountains of Europe.


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